You’ve just bought a lovely old place. It’s got the high ceilings, the original floorboards, maybe even a picture rail you’d happily show off at parties. Then you spot a bit of flaking paint near the window and think, “Easy. I’ll grab a scraper and a sander this weekend.”
Hold that thought. Please.
I’ve been around old houses long enough to know that the prettiest ones often hide the sneakiest surprises. And lead paint in an old house is one of the biggest. It’s not a reason to panic. But it is a reason to slow down, check first and then get on with the job the safe way.
Let’s walk through it together. No jargon, no lectures, and no scary-movie music.
Why Do Old Australian Homes Have Lead Paint at All?
Back in the day, lead was a star ingredient in house paint. It made colours bright, helped paint stick and made it last. Tradies loved it. Nobody realised what it was doing to our health.
Here’s the short version of what Australian government guidance says:
- Most Australian homes built before 1970 were coated with paints containing lead.
- The recommended lead content of domestic paint in Australia has come down over time, from 50% before 1965.
- As a rule of thumb, lead content in paint was limited to 1 per cent by 1970.
So that quaint 1950s bungalow? Odds are good it’s got lead in there somewhere, even if the walls look perfectly modern today.
And here’s the bit that catches people out. A house built after 1970 can still have it. Newer homes can still contain paint with more than 1 per cent lead, particularly where old paint was reused or older stock was used. So don’t assume you’re in the clear just because your place is “only” from the late 70s.
So… Do I Have Lead Paint in My Old House?
Short answer: if it was built before 1970, assume yes until a test says otherwise. If it was built between 1970 and the 1990s, it’s worth testing before you do anything messy.
Quick age guide
| When your house was built | Chance of lead paint | What I’d do |
| Before 1970 | High | Assume it’s there. Test before any prep. |
| 1970 to 1990s | Possible | Test, especially on old enamel or trim. |
| After 2000 | Low | Usually fine, but test if unsure. |
| Any age, with a renovation history | Unknown | Layers hide things. Test anyway. |
Where lead paint likes to hide
Lead paint isn’t always on the obvious walls. It’s a bit like finding old receipts in a coat pocket. You check everywhere, and you still miss a few.
- Exterior walls, fascias, eaves and gutters
- Window frames, sashes and sills (these get a lot of rubbing, so they make dust)
- Doors and door frames
- Skirting boards, architraves and picture rails
- Enamel and gloss finishes, particularly on timber
- Ceilings in older homes
- Verandah posts, railings and fences
Government guidance also notes that it may be found on interior walls, ceilings and areas with enamel paint. And a house that’s been repainted a few times can have a lead layer buried under newer coats. It’s out of sight, but not gone.
Is Lead Paint Actually Dangerous If I Leave It Alone?
Good question, and here’s the calming news.
Paint that’s intact, well kept and sealed under good coats is generally not the problem. Well-maintained lead-free paint isn’t a hazard in itself, and the same sensible logic applies to old paint in good condition. It’s not leaping off the wall to get you.
The trouble starts when the paint is disturbed. According to Queensland council guidance, lead becomes a risk when paint deteriorates and starts flaking, and during paint removal.
That means:
- Dry sanding
- Scraping without care
- Heat guns and burning off
- Sandblasting or high-pressure blasting
- Demolition and renovation dust
Every one of those can turn a stable wall into a cloud of fine, invisible dust. Lead particles can be inhaled or swallowed, and kids crawling around on floors and putting their hands in their mouths are the most at risk. Pets and neighbours can be affected too.
I’ll say it plainly, because it matters: never dry sand or sandblast paint you suspect contains lead. That one line is repeated in official Australian guidance, and it’s the single most useful rule in this whole post.
How Can I Tell If My Paint Contains Lead?
You can’t tell by looking. Lead paint doesn’t glow, and it doesn’t come with a label. So you’ve got three practical options.
1. DIY swab test kits
These are the easy first step. You rub a swab on a cleaned patch of paint and it changes colour if lead is present. Most hardware stores stock them. I’d call them a handy screening tool, not the final word.
2. Lab testing
You take a small paint sample (carefully, with wet methods and a mask) and send it to a lab. This gives you a proper number. Some Australian groups sell low-cost lab test kits, including NATA accredited laboratory lead test kits run by the LEAD Group.
3. Hire a professional
If you want certainty, or the job is big, a qualified painter or lead assessor can test and plan the work for you. This is where the experience really pays off.
| Option | Cost | Speed | Accuracy | Best for |
| DIY swab kit | Low | Minutes | Good for screening | A quick first check |
| Lab test | Low to moderate | Days | High | Knowing the exact level |
| Professional assessment | Higher | Depends on job | High | Big jobs, rentals, kids at home |
A little story. A few years back, I got called out to look at a lovely 1950s weatherboard. The owner had already started “just touching up” the window frames with an electric sander. Quiet job, no fuss. Then she read a pamphlet and rang us in a bit of a flap.
We tested. Positive. We sorted the clean-up properly, and thankfully her kids hadn’t been playing in the garden yet. But it was a close one. That swab test costs less than a decent lunch. Honestly, it’s the cheapest insurance in the whole renovation world.
What Should I Do Before Repainting an Old House?
Right, here’s the part you came for. Australia has a government guide just for this, called Lead Alert: The six step guide to painting your home. It’s licensed by the Commonwealth of Australia and the current edition dates from 2016. It’s the go-to resource, and I’d suggest every homeowner read it before picking up a brush.
It’s built around the following ideas. I’m putting it in my own words, so do check the full guide for the details.
Step 1: Find out first
The very first step is to test for lead before any work starts. Not halfway through. Not after you’ve already made a mess. First.
Step 2: Plan the job and get the right gear
If lead is present, you need protective equipment, not just a dust mask from the shed. The guidance says that contractors need to wear full PPE as set out in the guide. That includes proper respirators, disposable coveralls and gloves.
Step 3: Protect the work area
Think of it like prepping a kitchen for a food fight, then making sure nothing leaves the room. Cover the ground and nearby plants with heavy plastic sheeting. Seal off doors and windows. Keep kids, pets and neighbours well away. And please, don’t hang the washing out beside the work zone.
Step 4: Cover it or remove it
You’ve got two main paths.
- Cover it (encapsulation): If the lead paint is in good shape, you can often seal it in with the right primer and fresh topcoats. It’s usually cheaper and creates far less dust.
- Remove it: If the paint is flaking, cracked or badly worn, it needs to come off using safe, low-dust methods such as wet scraping or chemical strippers.
Official guidance notes that step four is to cover and/or remove the paint coatings that contain lead.
Step 5: Clean up properly
This is where people trip up. A broom just throws fine dust back into the air. You want wet wiping and a HEPA-rated vacuum, and you want to repeat it until the area is truly clean.
Step 6: Get rid of the waste safely
You can’t just chuck lead-laden scrapings, plastic sheeting and rags into the household bin. Step six of the guide is disposing of lead-contaminated waste. Check with your local council or waste facility about what’s accepted in your area.
DIY or Hire a Pro? Let’s Be Honest.
I love a weekend DIY win as much as the next person. But lead paint is one of those jobs where the risks sit in the part you can’t see.
Government guidance says it plainly: lead-based paint should ideally be assessed and remediated by trained professionals. The Dulux technical page makes a similar point, noting that reading the advice alone doesn’t give you the training or skills needed to manage lead paint hazards.
Here’s how I’d think about it:
| Situation | My take |
| Small area, intact paint, you’ve tested and it’s negative | DIY is generally fine |
| Small area, intact paint, tested positive | Cover rather than remove, follow the guide closely, or call a pro |
| Flaking or peeling paint over a larger area | Hire a trained professional |
| Kids under six or someone pregnant in the house | Strongly consider a professional |
| Rental, strata or you’re selling | Use a professional and keep the records |
If you do hire, ask about their experience with lead-safe work. Contractors keen to offer lead paint expertise are pointed towards specialist courses through their local Master Painters Association. That’s a good question to put to any painter you’re thinking about.
What About My Health? Signs and What to Do
I’m a painter, not a doctor, so I’ll keep this short and sensible.
Lead can affect your body in ways you won’t notice straight away. It can affect organs including the liver, kidneys and brain. Children are more vulnerable than adults.
If you’ve done any sanding or scraping and you’re worried that you or your family might have been exposed, speak to your GP. They can arrange a blood test and talk you through what the result means. Don’t wait for symptoms. If it’s an emergency, call 000. For poisoning advice, Australia’s Poisons Information Centre (13 11 26) is a helpful number to have on hand.
Quick Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Test before you touch anything
- Keep kids and pets away from the work area
- Wet-clean surfaces and use a HEPA vacuum
- Wash your hands and change your clothes before going inside
- Keep paint in good condition so it doesn’t flake
Don’t:
- Dry sand, burn off or sandblast suspect paint
- Sweep dry dust with a regular broom
- Use a household vacuum cleaner on lead dust
- Throw waste in the normal bin
- Assume newer paint on top means the lead’s gone
Frequently Asked Questions
Is lead paint illegal in Australia?
Lead in household paint has been heavily restricted for decades, and modern paint sold today is made without it. But there’s no law forcing you to remove old lead paint already on your walls. The risk comes from how you deal with it.
Can I just paint over lead paint?
Often, yes, as long as the old paint is in good condition. Cleaning it, using the right primer and applying fresh coats can seal it in. If it’s flaking or peeling, it needs proper treatment first.
Do I need to tell my neighbours?
It’s polite, and it’s sensible. Dust can travel, so a heads-up lets neighbours keep windows closed and kids inside. If you have concerns about how a neighbour is handling lead, you can contact your local council.
How much does lead testing cost?
A swab kit is a small outlay, lab tests cost a little more, and a professional assessment costs more again. Prices vary, so it’s worth getting a quote.
Is lead paint a problem when selling or renting?
It can be. Many buyers and tenants ask about it in older homes. Keeping test results and records of safe work gives everyone peace of mind.
Can I remove lead paint myself?
You can, but it’s the riskiest option for beginners. If you go DIY, follow the official guide to the letter. For anything big, I’d bring in a pro.
The Bottom Line
Lead paint in an old house isn’t a disaster. It’s a “know before you go” situation. Test first, plan second, work safely third, and you’ll end up with a gorgeous finish and a safe home.
And if you’d rather skip the guesswork, that’s what we’re here for. At JT Painting & Decorating, we help homeowners work out what’s under the paint before a single brush comes out. Get in touch for a no-fuss chat and quote, and let’s make your old house look brilliant without taking any silly risks.
Ready to repaint? Contact JT Painting & Decorating today for an honest quote.